Just a short train ride southwest of Porto is a beautiful coastal city known as a the Venice of Portugal. The city of Aveiro sits on the Atlantic Ocean where a network of canals wind their way through the city offering scenic views and fun boat rides.
Aveiro is not so big as Porto or Lisbon, but has a great deal to offer. It is very walkable since it is mostly flat and has outdoor markets, great shops and restaurants. It even has a University.
Aveiro Train Station
For those that like taking day trips, Aveiro is only about an hour train ride from Porto (São Bento station) and a 50 min ride from Coimbra (regional train). The first time we came to Aveiro, we were on the train. As you exit the train station, make sure you look to the right at the old train station covered in tile. This was the first sight of Aveiro and for some reason, we knew we were going to love the city.
Old Town
In the city center, there is the main canal that runs the length of the old town. It sort of divides the city and that is what I will use to navigate. If you want to see the Google Maps list, click here.
Vera Cruz of Aveiro
On the north end of the canal, you have the neighbourhood of Vera Cruz. It is a lovely neighbourhood full of shops and restaurants and little alleyways to explore. Here you will find the fish market and the city museum.
You will also find the famous Oficina do Doce where the traditional sweets, Ovos Moles, are made. These small delicacies are found all over Aveiro, but you can take a tour and see how they are made. They are egg yolks mixed with a little sugar syrup inside a wafer like shell. They are an acquired taste, in our opinion but many people just love them!
As you walk the city streets, especially in the center of town, will notice that art nouveau architecture is all around. Aveiro is known for their mix of art deco, art nouveau, and traditional Portuguese architecture. Make sure you visit the Art Nouveau Museum (Museum de Arte Nova) before you cross the canal!
Once you have explored that area, walk up toward the canal and take a Moliceiro boat tour. These colorful boats were originally used to help harvest seaweed. I would advise you to shop around a little for the best one. Some of these tours are just boat rides and some give you a guided tour with music. The tours usually aren’t very long since there are not many canals in Aveiro, but it’s a great way to see another perspective of Aveiro.
Neighbourhood of Glória, Aveiro
Once you cross the main canal, go up Rua de Coimbra You will know it by the ceramic mural installed on the wall. This street leads you into the neighbourhood of Glória, where you will find some of the best restaurants and shops. If you are wanting pastry and coffee, check out M Bakery. It is more of a French bakery, but it is worth visiting. The local markets in this area are geared more toward residents than souvenirs, but you can find some great ceramics and of course a great bottle of wine or a pastel de Bacalhau.
About two blocks over from the bakery is the Museu de Aveiro (Aveiro museum) which was once a 15th century convent and now houses religious art and the tomb of Princess Saint Joana, daughter of Afonso V. The Aveiro Cathedral (Igreja Parochial de Nossa Senhora da Glória) is right next door. It is a small cathedral compared to many in Portugal, but beautiful and worth the visit.
When you finish with the museum and cathedral, walk back toward the main canal via Rua do Batalhão de Caçadores to the Forum Aveiro, Portugal’s first outdoor shopping center. They are more like a shopping mall carrying brands such as Timberland and Pandora along with popular Portuguese stores. They also have a food foodcourt (K-ort) in case you are hungry, but I would recommend you find a local restaurant instead.
As you exit the shopping center, you will cross the famous Ponte dos Laços de Amizade where millions of people have hung ribbons for special prayers and wishes. As you stand up there taking in the amount of ribbons that must be tied to the bridge, don’t miss the Moliceiro boats taking tourists around the canals of Aveiro.
A short drive from Aveiro
Salt Flats
It wasn’t until our third visit that we discovered what is just a short drive outside of the main city. On our way out to the nearby beaches, we stopped to see the salt pans on the Ria de Aveiro lagoon. You can walk out onto the flats if they are not being worked and read the signs that explain the salt production process using traditional methods and techniques that date back to the 10th century.
We also spent a few minutes out here admiring the scenic views of the lagoon and how the canal system works. The locks let boats in to the canal system and out via the lagoon one at a time so that the tides do not affect the canals a great deal.
Nearby Beaches
The west coast beaches are also a great place to visit especially during the summer months. I will warn you though -it may be a little crowded. Once you cross Aveiro Lagoon, you can turn right to see the tallest lighthouse in Portugal at Farol de Aveiro. You can go up to the observation deck to get some great panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean.
To the left is Praia da Barre, the first beach you come to. We opted to drive a little further south to Costa Nova Beach (Praia da Costa Nova), where the famous colorful houses are. This popular tourist destination is quite busy–and hot–in the summer. We walked the main sidewalk to take some pictures.
The houses were once places for fisherman to sleep and store equipment. They were usually painted using old boat paint and the vertical stripes helped identify individual houses from a distance especially from the sea. Now it is tradition and a part of the local culture. Some of the newer houses are tiled or painted the same way.
Águeda: the city of Umbrellas
About a 30 minute drive outside of Aveiro is the charming little town of Águeda. Most people know it as the city of umbrellas because of the Umbrella Sky Project. During summer months, colorful umbrellas are suspended over some streets, creating a vibrant, Instagram-worthy canopy. This art installation has put Águeda on the global tourism map.
Águeda is also known for the AgitÁgueda Art Festival. This annual summer festival features music, art installations, and cultural events. It’s when the Umbrella Sky Project is in full swing. The town is easy to navigate and walk and there are many shops and restaurants along the paths. It’s a great place to stop in on your way to Aveiro or if you are heading to Porto or Lisbon from Coimbra.
More information
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If you are interested in a Moliceiro Traditional boat tours, you can find them as low as $15. Book in advance if you can.
If you are not driving or taking the train in, you can get private day trip tours from Porto and Coimbra.
Get a guided tour of Barra Beach, the lighthouse, and Costa Nova by clicking here.
We stayed at the Hotel Jardim. It was quite lovely and within walking distance to almost everything. Hotel Aveiro Palace may be a little more pricey, but in the BEST location.
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Shelley is a full time traveler, blogger and podcaster currently living in Portugal with her wife, 2 dogs and a cat. She is a former history teacher originally from Winston-Salem, NC but wanted to see what life was like abroad. Now she travels all over Portugal and Europe writing about what she sees and does and tells you all kinds of fun stories on the podcast at Wandering Works for Us.