The first time my wife and I visited Lisbon, our tutuk driver took us into Alfama. She asked if we had tried ginjinha yet. We had only been in the country about 24 hours and didn’t even know what ginjinha was.
She parked the Tuktuk up on the sidewalk close to a small and very busy square in the middle of Alfama. She then led us up a winding, narrow street that went straight uphill.
We passed small shops selling souvenirs until we reached a small cafe. The owner welcomed us inside and our guide ordered two ginjinhas. I said three—you are joining us, yes?
As we sat outside the cafe and talked about what we liked about Lisbon so far and what we should see while we were here, we watched the people walk up and down our street. The easy going vibe of Portugal was capturing our hearts.
When we finally left, we passed by a woman singing fado in the alley. Alfama is not just a neighborhood, it is a feeling.
Oldest Neighborhood
Alfama is undoubtedly the most famous neighborhood in Lisbon and is quite popular with tourists these days. And we can see why. It has the charm of old Lisbon with its narrow streets and baroque architecture.
Alfama feels old, and that is because it is. It was created by the Moors who settled outside the São Jorge Castle. It and the Moorish Quarter were the only neighbourhoods that survived the devastating earthquake of 1755 because they were located on a rocky hill which was stable enough to stand the shaking and high enough to dodge the tsunami and fires.
But because it is one the coolest neighbourhoods in Lisbon, it is also one of the most visited. Thousands of tourists come through everyday, more during the summer months. We visited twice in August and it was quite crowded.
Alfama is now one of the top places to rent an Air B&B, which is wrecking havoc on the neighborhood and its residents. Although many buildings that need renovations and upgrades are getting them, residents who have lived there their whole lives are being pushed out so that more money can be made in rentals. Alfama residents are pushing back and currently seeking a ban on rentals and Air B&B in particular. So as a tourist, keep in mind that people live here and be respectful.
So, what is there to do/see in Alfama?
Lots! Alfama has so much going on that you can walk a few hundred meters and run into something cool. But just in case you need a list, here we go! You can access all of this on my google maps list found here.
Visit São Jorge Castle
Alfama is full of steep hills and there is no real way of avoiding them as you explore. But, if I can I like to start at the top of a hill and work my way down. Castelo de São Jorge is at the top and very much worth the visit.
We had heard that there wasn’t’t much up there to see…well except for the whole city of Lisboa! The views are spectacular! We spent a great deal of time taking pictures, video and just marvelling in the beauty that is Lisboa.
You can also walk the castle walls almost all the way around the structure. This also gives panoramic views of Lisboa from the Tagus river to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. There is a museum with artifacts found on site as well as an archeological dig site. We were unable to access the site but could see it from the castle walls.
But I almost forgot about the peacocks! Yes, there are many peacocks that call this area home and they are free and walk around the grounds with the tourists. we were lucky to see some chicks that had been born just a few weeks before our visit.
Famous Churches
Any tour you take through Lisbon is going to take you to the Lisbon Cathedral, or the Sé Cathedral, the oldest church in Lisbon. You can enter the nave of the Catholic church for free or take a tour if you wish.
The Monastery of São Vicente de Fora was first founded in 1147 by Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king. The monastery is now a national monument and museum showcasing religious art and artifacts as well as its extensive collection of azulejos. It was one of the few buildings that survived the great earthquake.
Miradouros in Alfama
Miradouros are lookouts or great places to view the entire city up high. Alfama is full of them. We have been to several of them, mostly by TukTuk tours. Like I said, Alfama is full of steep hills.
One of the best is at Miradouro das Portas do Sol, and close by Miradouro de Santa Luzia. Both have a stunning view of the Tagus River. Plus, there is a cafe/bar close by and you can sit on the terrace and enjoy the view will a cold beverage.
Miradouro da Graça is a lovely overlook in a park, a perfect place to take a break from all the walking. There is a small kiosk to buy beverages and a beautiful fountain to enjoy. Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is also a great viewpoint .
The highest Miradouro (besides São Jorge Castle) is at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. This viewpoint has panoramic views of the city from the Tagus River, São Jorge Castle all the way across the river to The Sanctuary of Christ the King (Santuário de Cristo Rei). This is the best place to see the sunset but give yourself enough time to get up the steep hill.
The National Pantheon
The National Pantheon is a National monument that was once the Church of Santa Engrácia in the 17th century. In 1966, it was converted to the Pantheon and serves as the final resting place for many Portuguese figures including Amália Rodrigues, the fado singer, football star Eusébio, and several former presidents.
The coolest part, of course is the terrace at the top. You can climb the stairs all the way up to the top of the main building and then go to the terrace to see the panoramic view from there.
Feira da Ladra
At the base of the National Pantheon is the Feira da Ladra, the large flea market that is open on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It is held in the Campo de Santa Clara and is close to the São Vicente de Fora Monastery. The market is one of the oldest markets dating back to the 12th century and is the perfect place to find an unusual souvenir. You can lunch in one of the many cafes or in the market itself.
Fado Museum
Opened in 1998, this small museum is dedicated to celebrating and preserving the rich history and culture of Fado. Fado is Portugal’s traditional music genre that actually hails from North Africa.
The museum has interactive exhibits so that you can learn about different styles of fado and different singers of the time. They also have live performances here and exhibits that highlight notable figures such as Amália Rodrigues, the “Queen of Fado.”
Getting to the Alfama District
Because Alfama has such narrow streets and located on the hill headed up toward São Jorge, the metro does not go through there. You can take the metro to the Martim Moniz stop on the green line and then take a tram or bus. I often take an Uber or Bolt instead just because it is quicker.
A Note about Tram 28
Tram 28 is the famous tram route that takes you through Alfama. Many people often ride the route because it easily winds its way through the cobblestone streets and only costs about €2. BUT it is so popular that it is often full to capacity and is a prime place for pickpockets to be. Public transport in Lisbon is very safe, but keep your valuables locked down if you take a crowded bus, tram, or train.
Plus, the yellow tram is supposed to be for locals to move about the city and the red ones are for tourists. Keep in mind many locals need to take the tram to and from work, so be mindful if you want to ride.
Private Tours and TukTuks
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The first time we were in Lisbon, we opted for a TukTuk tour and it was a great option. We did not have a lot of time to see Lisbon and we were able to see a good chunk of it with the tour. I highly recommend that if you have back issues, do the one in the antique car. The shocks are better on those cobblestone streets.
If you want a list of private tours, check out our blog post here.
We also recommend the free walking tours available. They will often take you to the less visited side of Alfama. Lisbon Chill-out is a great option but make sure you make reservations in advance.
Alfama is a feeling
These days, Alfama is a tourist attraction, but for many, it is home and what makes the neighborhood real. We love showing guests around and exploring Alfama every time we visit Lisbon. It is no doubt one of the top places we love to visit. Make sure that when you choose a place to eat, you have checked out the back alleys where the locals go. That is where the best food is!
If you are curious about what we love to do while we are in Lisbon, check out our podcast on Lisbon (and other places we have visited in Portugal and Europe! These podcasts are more personal stories than the blog posts.
If you love what we do, please consider a donation or just buy us a gin and tonic!
Shelley is a full time traveler, blogger and podcaster currently living in Portugal with her wife, 2 dogs and a cat. She is a former history teacher originally from Winston-Salem, NC but wanted to see what life was like abroad. Now she travels all over Portugal and Europe writing about what she sees and does and tells you all kinds of fun stories on the podcast at Wandering Works for Us.