What to eat in Naples, Italy: Traditional Neapolitan Cuisine

Naples, a city steeped in history, wears its heart on its sleeve, and nowhere is this passion more evident than in its cuisine. We set out on a gastronomic journey through the vibrant streets and rich flavors of Neapolitan food, where every dish tells a story and every bite is an ode to tradition. Neapolitan cuisine is fresh and flavorful without the salt and the sugar. Dishes are simply made with just a few ingredients. It is very much some of the best food in the world.

When visiting the campania region, there are several dishes that must be tried. Of course there is the best pizza in the world here. But there is also amazing pastry shops, local fish, pasta dishes, and the best wine. Make sure you try something of each!

The Art of Neapolitan Pizza: A Slice of Heaven

The heart of Neapolitan cuisine beats in its iconic pizza, after all it is the birthplace of pizza. From the soft, chewy crust to the luscious tomato sauce and the gooey mozzarella. It’s no wonder that this dish has transcended borders.

We had pizza serval times, always trying the pizza Margherita every time. The pizza dough was softer than we were used to but the flavours of the sauce, cheese, and fresh basil had us stuffing our faces quickly.

The classic Neapolitan pizza has a thin, soft crust with a slightly charred edge (called this the “cornicione”), topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil, and a drizzle of olive oil. It’s simple, but oh so perfect. The magic happens in wood-fired ovens that reach scorching temperatures, cooking the pizza in just 60-90 seconds.

Now, where should you go for the best pizza in Naples? Here are my top picks:

1. L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele: This place is a legend. They’ve been making pizza since 1870 and they only serve two types – Margherita and Marinara. Don’t let the simplicity fool you; these pizzas are mind-blowing. The queue can be long because it is the most popular pizza places in Naples (and the world), but trust me, it’s worth the wait.
2. Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo: Another Neapolitan institution. Gino Sorbillo is a pizza maestro, and his creations are works of art. The atmosphere is lively, and the pizzas are huge. Try the classic Margherita, but don’t miss out on their creative seasonal specials.
3. 50 Kalò: For a slightly more upscale pizza experience, head to 50 Kalò. The name means “good dough” in Neapolitan dialect, and boy, do they deliver. Their crust is impossibly light and airy. The fried pizza (pizza fritta) here is a must-try!

Pro tip: Neapolitans often eat their pizza with a knife and fork, starting from the center. But if you want to eat it with your hands, go ahead – just fold it in half to make a wallet pizza to avoid the toppings sliding off!

Cafe and Pastry

The thing I really loved was breakfast. I like sweet things in the morning and Italians usually have a pastry with a cafe (espresso). There were cafes all over the place, mostly owned by Cafe Torrado. I am going to call them the Starbucks of Naples except they are way better. Each place had pastries that were fresh and cafe lattes to my liking. Some overused the milk but still better than Starbucks.

We had such a place right down the street from our Air B&B and so we stopped in several mornings. One morning, we were held as barbarians because we needed our food to go. That is not a popular thing in Italy. When you eat, you sit and stay and enjoy the food and the company. That was not hard to do at all. In fact, I got really used to it.

Now, let’s satisfy our sweet tooth with some Neapolitan pastries. Naples has a rich tradition of pastry-making, and the results are nothing short of heavenly.

The star of the show is undoubtedly the Sfogliatella. This shell-shaped sweet treat comes in two varieties: Sfogliatella Riccia, which has a crispy, many-layered exterior, and Sfogliatella Frolla, which has a softer, shortcrust-like exterior. Both are filled with a mixture of ricotta cheese, semolina, cinnamon, and candied citrus peel. The contrast between the crisp exterior and the creamy filling is simply divine.

Another must-try is the Babà al Rum. These small, mushroom-shaped yeast cakes are soaked in rum syrup until they’re soft and spongy. They’re often served plain, but you can also find them filled with pastry cream or fresh fruit.

For something truly indulgent, try the Pastiera Napoletana. This traditional Easter cake is made with shortcrust pastry filled with a mixture of ricotta, cooked wheat, eggs, and candied fruit. It’s aromatic, rich, and utterly delicious.

Where to indulge your sweet tooth

1. Pasticceria Scaturchio: This historic pastry shop has been around since 1905. Their Sfogliatella is top-notch, and they’re famous for their Ministeriale, a chocolate medallion filled with a secret recipe cream.
2. Gran Caffè Gambrinus: This elegant café in the heart of Naples serves excellent pastries along with great coffee. Their Babà al Rum is not to be missed.
3. Pasticceria Poppella: Home of the famous “Fiocco di Neve” (Snowflake) – a soft, creamy pastry that melts in your mouth. Their traditional pastries are also excellent.

Pasta Perfetto!

Our biggest meal of the day was usually lunch in the late afternoon. This is when we ate the quintessential Italian cuisine: pasta!

Most of our dishes were pasta. My favorite pasta dish was spaghetti alla vongole (spaghetti with clams and mussels) at a restaurant called Hosteria Toledo (in the Spanish Quarter). It was flavored with olive oil and herbs and was light and savory.

Sometimes the pasta in America can be a little heavy, but never in Naples. It’s because most restaurants serve fresh pasta. Beth’s pasta of choice was Gnocchi alla Sorrentina so she had it at almost every restaurant we visited. Her favorite was at a beautiful restaurant in Sorrento called O’Parrucchiano La Favorita. It was recommended by a friend of hers and it did not disappoint.

One other pasta dish you absolutely must try is Pasta alla Genovese. Don’t let the name fool you – this is a Neapolitan specialty. It’s a rich, onion-based sauce that’s slow-cooked with beef until it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender. The result is a sauce that’s sweet, savory, and utterly addictive.

For the best pasta in Naples, check out these restaurants:

1. Tandem: This place is famous for its ragù, a rich meat sauce that’s simmered for hours. Their Pasta alla Genovese is also to die for. The restaurant is tiny, so make a reservation!
2. Ristorante Umberto: A family-run restaurant that’s been around since 1916. Their Spaghetti alle Vongole is legendary, and they also do a mean Pasta alla Genovese.
3. Mimì alla Ferrovia: Don’t let the location near the train station fool you – this place serves some of the best traditional Neapolitan dishes in the city. Their pasta dishes are fantastic, especially the Paccheri alla Genovese.

Neapolitan irresistible snacks

Neapolitans love their snacks, and once you try them, you’ll understand why. These small bites pack a punch of flavor and are perfect for a quick energy boost while exploring the city.

First up, we have to talk about Frittatina di Pasta. Imagine this: cooked pasta mixed with béchamel sauce and peas, formed into a ball, breaded, and then deep-fried to golden perfection. It’s crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and utterly irresistible.

Another popular street food is Crocchè, which are potato croquettes. These crispy, golden nuggets are made with mashed potatoes, egg, cheese, and sometimes bits of ham. They’re the perfect handheld snack to munch on while walking through the narrow streets of Naples.

For a healthier option, try Mozzarella in Carrozza. It’s essentially a fried mozzarella sandwich, but it’s so much more than that. The bread is thin and crispy, and the mozzarella inside is gooey and stretchy. It’s often served with a side of tomato sauce for dipping.

We also had plenty of bruschettas, indulged in the local liqueurs, and stayed for cappuccinos and sweets. One afternoon we indulged in a meat and cheese tray–charcuterie if you will, and probably the best I have ever had. I am unsure as to what exactly was on it, but the olives were so fresh that I didn’t mind having a green one.

Bruschetta was also a favorite. Fresh tomatoes and mozzarella cheese were sometimes our dinners because we were so tired but so stuffed from lunch.

I should also mention that we drank all the wine. Once, we tried a recommended bottle of local wine and it was fantastic, but most of the time, we ordered a liter of the house wine. I have noticed that the house wine in Naples is better than some expensive wines here in America!

Sea to Table: Neapolitan Seafood Wonders

With its location on the Bay of Naples, it’s no surprise that seafood plays a starring role in Neapolitan cuisine. The variety and freshness of the seafood here will make any fish lover’s heart sing.

It wasn’t until the last day that we found the best restaurant in town. We were lucky enough to get a cab driver, Phillipo, who recommended La Locanda del Borboni. He claimed it was the best restaurant in Naples, and I believed him, especially since it is where he and his family eat. He even called from the cab to reserve us a table.

I had the sea bass. Yes, it came as a whole fish but was flavored subtly with herbs and olive oil. I was in heaven. Of course, Beth had the gnocchi. She just can’t get enough of it! We were also told that since it was the Saturday before Easter, we should order the Pasteria Napoletana which is basically a lemon ricotta pie. DELICIOUS! All of this went well with the liter of white wine we ordered.

One dish you must try is Impepata di Cozze – mussels cooked with lots of black pepper. It’s simple, but the pepper adds a wonderful kick that complements the briny mussels perfectly. Sop up the sauce with some crusty bread, and you’re in heaven.

For something a bit more substantial, go for the Zuppa di Pesce. This “fish soup” is more like a stew, packed with various types of fish and shellfish in a tomato-based broth. It’s hearty, flavorful, and showcases the bounty of the Mediterranean.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Polpo alla Luciana. This octopus dish is cooked slowly in tomato sauce with olives and capers, resulting in tender octopus infused with rich, tangy flavors.

Where to enjoy the best seafood in Naples

1. Trattoria Da Nennella: This family-run trattoria in the Spanish Quarter serves excellent, no-frills seafood dishes. Their Impepata di Cozze is fantastic.
2. Ristorante Pizzeria Mattozzi: Don’t let the “pizzeria” in the name fool you – their seafood dishes are stellar. The Zuppa di Pesce here is a local favorite.
3. A’ Figlia d”o Marenaro: This place started as a street food stall and has grown into a full restaurant. Their seafood is super fresh, and the Polpo alla Luciana is a must-try.

Whenever you are in Naples, never pass up on the dessert. Whether it be gelato, creme-stuffed pastries, or lemon cakes, indulge!! It is so worth it, and trust me, you will walk it off touring the city. All in all, I would go back to Italy for the dining experience alone.

Beyond the Plate: The Neapolitan Food Experience

What makes dining in Naples special isn’t just the delicious food – it’s the entire experience. The passion Neapolitans have for their cuisine is palpable. You’ll see it in the way a pizzaiolo carefully shapes his dough, in the pride a waiter takes in describing the day’s specials, and in the animated discussions locals have about where to find the best sfogliatella.

Don’t be surprised if you’re welcomed like family in many restaurants, especially the smaller, family-run places. Neapolitans are known for their warmth and hospitality, and this extends to their treatment of visitors. You might find yourself being offered a complimentary limoncello at the end of your meal, or getting into a friendly debate about soccer with the restaurant owner.

One thing to keep in mind: meal times in Naples might be different from what you’re used to. Lunch is typically from 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM, and dinner starts around 8:30 PM and can go late into the night. Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner, so plan accordingly.

Also, don’t be in a rush. Meals in Naples are meant to be savored, not hurried. Take your time, enjoy each bite, and engage in that most Italian of pastimes – conversation over good food and wine.

A Few More Tips for Your Neapolitan Food Adventure

• Try the local wines: Campania, the region where Naples is located, produces some excellent wines. Look for varieties like Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, or the red Aglianico.
• Visit a market: For a glimpse into local food culture, visit the Pignasecca market or the Porta Nolana fish market. The sights, sounds, and smells are an experience in themselves.
• Take a food tour: If you’re overwhelmed by choices, consider taking a guided food tour. It’s a great way to try a variety of dishes and learn about the history and culture behind the food.
• Learn a few Italian food words: Knowing how to say “Delizioso!” (Delicious!) or “Buon appetito!” (Enjoy your meal!) can go a long way in endearing you to the locals.
• Be adventurous: While it’s great to try the famous dishes, don’t be afraid to order something you’ve never heard of. Some of the best culinary experiences come from stepping out of your comfort zone.

Naples is a food lover’s paradise. From the perfect pizza to delicate pastries, from comforting pasta dishes to fresh seafood, the city offers a culinary journey that will delight all your senses. Each meal is not just sustenance, but a celebration of life, tradition, and the rich bounty of the region.

So, come to Naples with an empty stomach and an open mind. Prepare to eat your way through narrow, winding streets, to gesticulate wildly as you rave about that amazing pasta you just had, and to fall in love with a cuisine that’s as vibrant and passionate as the city itself. Trust me, after experiencing the food of Naples, you’ll be planning your return trip before you’ve even left. Buon appetito!

Bonus!

One of the best things about eating in Naples in April? Eating outside! Second best? Free entertainment! Mind you, they are not exactly free since they serenade you at the table and want a tip. But you can decline the serenade if you wish. We did not.

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