Before moving to Portugal, Halloween was my favorite time of year. Six weeks in advance, we’d start decorating every corner of the house—pumpkins on the windowsills, lights strung around every room, and crates of decorations brought down from the attic.
Weekends were filled with stringing lights outside, hunting for the perfect haunted house, or wandering through corn mazes. Candy was carefully stocked, but the real joy was in the rituals of fall itself. Halloween wasn’t just a day—it was a season.
Here in Portugal, October 31st passes quietly. There are no glowing jack-o’-lanterns on the porches, no children racing through the streets in costumes. Instead, the magic of autumn takes a different form, rooted in centuries-old traditions like Pão Por Deus and All Saints Day, when families gather to honor the past and celebrate the season in their own unique way.
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Halloween in Portugal: Subtle, But Slowly Growing
The first year we were here, I noticed that a few stores carried Halloween decorations and costumes, but very few homes were decorated. Most of the displays we saw were tucked into shop windows rather than in front yards or on doorsteps. The same is true this year—our neighborhood school has a few paper ghosts and bats in the windows, but otherwise, Halloween passes quietly.
That first year, unsure what to expect, we asked a store clerk what we should give to children if they came by. He smiled, handed me a bag of candy, and said, “Just in case.” No one came.
The second year, though, we noticed a small change. A few groups of children—mostly upper elementary students—were out walking through the village. Their costumes were simple but charming: ghosts, skeletons, and the occasional green monster. One boy even had an impressively detailed Beetlejuice costume that made us both smile.
While Halloween in Portugal is still understated compared to the U.S., it seems to be slowly catching on with the younger generation. The decorations may be minimal, but there’s a quiet excitement beginning to build as new traditions mix with old.
All Saints Day: Honoring the Saints
All Saints Day (Dia de Todos os Santos) is a national holiday in Portugal. Observed on November 1st, it is marked by church services, family gatherings, and meals shared in remembrance of loved ones. While Halloween may be understated here, All Saints Day is deeply rooted in Portuguese culture and widely observed across the country.
The day begins with children going door to door carrying small bags for Pão Por Deus, small cakes made with fruit and sometimes nuts. However, most of the children today are looking for candy! Some wear costumes, while others go in their regular clothes—either way, the spirit of the day is one of cheerfulness and welcome.
The tradition originates from the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, when much of the city was destroyed by fire and a tsunami. On All Saints Day, the day after the disaster, children went from house to house asking for “bread for God” because there was no food.
Today, many families continue the day’s celebrations by visiting cemeteries, decorating graves with fresh flowers and lit candles, and sometimes leaving toys for children. The cemeteries themselves are strikingly different from those in the United States.
Marble casings cover many graves, and family mausoleums display photos and personal mementos. More than one family member may rest in a single plot, emphasizing the importance of family memory and continuity.
All Souls Day: Remembering the Departed
The following day, All Souls Day (Dia de Finados) is celebrated. This day is considered even more significant than All Saints Day. Families honor deceased relatives by cleaning and decorating graves, leaving candles and flowers, and sometimes holding small picnics at the gravesites.
Visiting these cemeteries is a contemplative experience. The attention to detail in gravesites, the enduring family memorials, and the quiet reverence of visitors all speak to a culture that cherishes remembering ancestors. Observing these traditions made me reflect on how often we overlook the simple act of honoring those who came before us.
Autumn in Portugal: A Different Kind of Magic
Autumn in Portugal may lack the gaudy costumes and loud Halloween celebrations of the U.S. (that I love and miss), but it offers its own beauty and meaning. From the sweet aroma of Pão Por Deus to the flickering candlelight in cemeteries, the season blends reflection, community, and a sense of history.
Though I miss the spectacle of Halloween, the quiet rituals here are deeply moving. And with Christmas around the corner, I love to see how Portugal lights up for the holidays. Our next adventure will be São Martinho Day, when chestnuts, wine, and village celebrations mark another unique tradition.
If you want to hear more of our adventures in Portugal, check out our Podcast episode on the fall holidays! You can listen on Apple, Spotify, Prime, Pocket Casts, and YouTube. For more pics of the season, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok.
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Shelley is a full-time traveler, writer, and podcaster based in Portugal, where she lives with her wife and their beloved bulldog, Scoot. Originally from Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Shelley is a former history teacher who swapped the classroom for cobblestone streets and passport stamps. These days, she explores Portugal and Europe in search of fascinating stories, unforgettable sights, and local flavor—then shares it all through her blog and podcast, Wandering Works for Us, where curiosity meets adventure (and sometimes wine).