When you hear about palaces in Portugal, most think of Sintra and Pena Palace. It is the famous castle on the hill that (some say) inspired Disney’s castle. But if you want an alternative that is easier to get to, has fewer crowds, and is grander than Pena, we recommend Mafra Palace.
This incredible 18th-century palace is located about 35 minutes outside of Lisbon in the small town of Mafra. Crafted in 18th-century Baroque architecture, this is one of the most extravagant palaces in the world. It has over 1200 rooms, 156 staircases, and a basilica complex.
In addition, there is the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a game reserve located on the grounds. When the palace was a residence, the park was used as a hunting ground for wild boar and other game. Today, there are hiking and mountain bike trails in the park and a beautiful place for a picnic.
The Palácio de Mafra also inspired Nobel Prize winner José Saramagoo’s novel Baltasar ad Blimunda which takes place during the construction of the Palace and the Convent. The Palace is now a national monument as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
History of Mafra Palace
When King D. Joao V of Portugal was king, he wanted to build a palace that reflected Portugal’s wealth and power during the Age of Discovery. He used the influx of gold from the colony of Brazil. He wanted the palace to rival other palaces of Europe, such as the Palace of Versailles.
So, once his firstborn entered the world, he began building the royal palace in 1714. It took 14 years to complete. He employed the German architect Johann Friedrich Ludwig (known in Portugal as João Frederico Ludovice) who had studied architecture in Rome.
The palace has not only served as a residence for the Portuguese Royal Family, but also as a hospital, a school, and even a prison at one time. It was the last place that D. Manuel, Portugal’s last king, spent the night before leaving Portugal forever.
Touring the Mafra Palace
It took us a couple of hours to go through it all even though our niece thought we were moving too fast (which was hilarious as we are usually slow). There is so much to see so allow yourself some time.
Start the tour on the bottom floor at the left tower (if you are looking at the palace). This is where the hospital is located. You will walk through a room with a palace model and many reliquaries on display. The halls wrap around the barracks of the doctors or monks and then end in the infirmary.
The tour is short but well worth it. You double back and leave the same way you came in.
Royal Apartments
As you move to the upper floor, you can tell the palace was built for grandeur. The tour takes you through the throne room, the king’s and queen’s apartments, the library, a game room, the hunting room, the children’s rooms, the music room, and the basilica.
Each room is a work of art. Unfortunately, most original furniture and art are no longer at the Palace. When Napoleon and his forces invaded Portugal in 1807, Queen Maria I and the crown prince escaped to Brazil, taking much of the art and furniture with them.
Once you walk up the stairs closest to the ticket booth, follow the long hall to the end and start in the King’s Apartments. Here you will see his office, his bedroom, and his bath.
It circles the tower where the views of the city are spectacular and the rooms are a work of art.
Once you exit the King’s chambers, you can see down a long hallway of marble floors. This hallway leads to the Queen’s chambers and is 232 meters long. As a matter of fact, a trumpet was sounded when the king was on his way to see the queen to give her a few minutes to prepare herself.
My favorite part of the Queen’s chambers was the bath area. I would have loved to soak in the tub by the window. The Queen’s bedroom was the last room that Manuel II stayed in before he fled as the last king of Portugal.
From the Queen’s chamber, you enter yet another long hallway that leads to several rooms, set up on display one after another. There is the hunting room adorned with the heads of many animals and a chandelier made of antlers.
Moving on down the way, there is a game room, the children’s bedroom, and a tea room that is decorated in yellow.
At the end of the long hallway is a dining room, and then another hallway where you can go to the restroom that leads to an art display and then finally, the Mafra Palace Library.
This library is full of leather-bound volumes, more than 36,000 volumes. There are two floors of shelves holding manuscripts on subjects such as law, philosophy, medicine and theology.
But what is also quite cool about this library is that it houses a colony of bats. They eat the pests that would destroy the pages of the books. I, however, would not want the cleanup job every morning.
The Basilica
The last part of the Palace we saw was the basilica. The entrance is at the very front of the palace and it is free to enter. There are 6 pipe organs there and the palace sponsors several concerts throughout the year.
The basilica is also part of the Mafra Convent located in the back of the palace. The convent is no longer in operation since the government dissolved all religious buildings in 1834.
Is Mafra Palace worth visiting?
Although it was not at the top of our list, we now agree it should have been closer! Yes, Mafra Palace is worth it and the town of Mafra is also quite lovely. It is only 35 minutes outside of Lisbon, so it is perfect for an afternoon day trip. Parking and access are easy and there are several cafes and restaurants outside the palace to have lunch or a snack.
Guided tours from Lisbon are available. Most will also take you to Ericeira, a nearby beach village which is also quite charming!
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Shelley is a full time traveler, blogger and podcaster currently living in Portugal with her wife, 2 dogs and a cat. She is a former history teacher originally from Winston-Salem, NC but wanted to see what life was like abroad. Now she travels all over Portugal and Europe writing about what she sees and does and tells you all kinds of fun stories on the podcast at Wandering Works for Us.