**This blog post is featured in GPSmyCity. Click the link to check them out!**
Before this trip, Croatia wasn’t high on our winter travel list. Like many, we associated the country with turquoise beaches and summer island-hopping — not twinkling lights, mulled wine, and festive markets. But when friends invited us to explore the Zagreb Christmas Market, repeatedly voted the Best Christmas Market in Europe (2016, 2017, 2018), we said yes without hesitation.
And honestly? Zagreb turned out to be one of the most charming winter destinations we’ve visited.
From historic Upper Town views to cozy taverns, from creative museums to Advent chalets serving hot gin (yes, it’s a thing!), Zagreb surprised and delighted us at every turn.
Whether you’re planning a European winter getaway or looking for an underrated Christmas city break, here’s our full guide to Advent in Zagreb.
To help you find all the places listed in this article, we made a Google Map.
**Wandering Works for Us contains affiliate links and is part of Viator, Get Your Guide, Booking.com, TripAdvisor, and Amazon Services Associates Program LLC. If you make a purchase using one of the links, I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Lower Town Zagreb: Markets, Parks & Holiday Lights
We based ourselves in an apartment just three blocks from Ban Jelačić Square, which becomes one of the city’s brightest hubs during Advent. Zagreb was very walkable with its wide and flat sidewalks. But if you want to see Zagreb the right way, take a walking tour with an expert!
Kralja Tomislava Park
Our first stop was the Christmas Market at Kralja Tomislava Park, home to ice skating rinks, glowing holiday lights, and the impressive Art Pavilion as a backdrop. Even in the drizzle, skaters braved the ice, and the atmosphere felt festive and cozy.
Ban Jelačić Square
This lively square is the heart of the city, surrounded by cafés, restaurants, and trams gliding past. During Advent, it’s decked out in lights and becomes a perfect people-watching spot with a cup of kuhano vino (Croatian mulled wine).
Zagreb Cathedral (Under Restoration)
Walking uphill from the square, the twin spires of Zagreb Cathedral rise above the city — currently wrapped in scaffolding due to damage from the 2020 earthquake. Even so, the stones laid out around the building for restoration give it a quiet, reverent atmosphere.
Upper Town, Zagreb: Iconic Views, History & Culture
There’s a reason it’s called Upper Town — it’s a steep climb. You can take the funicular for about 0.66€, but we climbed the stairs and wandered through the back alley known for its “love locks.” The reward? Incredible city views from Lotščak Tower.
St. Mark’s Church
With its eye-catching tiled roof displaying the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, this 13th-century church is one of the city’s most photographed landmarks. It was closed outside of Mass during our visit, but the exterior alone is worth the trip.
Oldest Pharmacy in Zagreb
Dating back to the 14th century, this tiny pharmacy once employed Dante’s great-grandson. Even though it was closed, we admired its beautifully preserved façade.
The Old Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata)
A powerful spiritual landmark. Inside the gate sits a revered painting of the Virgin Mary and Jesus — the only object to survive a fire that once consumed the gate. Visitors walk through quietly, pausing to pray or light candles. It’s moving, whether you’re religious or not.
Museum of Broken Relationships
A highlight of Zagreb. For 7€, you’ll wander through personal objects donated from around the world, each paired with stories of heartbreak, humor, loss, or transformation. It’s quirky, emotional, and absolutely unique.
Where to Eat: Zagreb Food Highlights
Zagreb’s food scene surprised us — diverse, delicious, and full of memorable dishes. But one of the best ways to experience Zagreb’s cuisine is to take a food tour.
La Štruk
Don’t miss this place. Štrukli is a traditional Croatian dish of pastry layered with creamy cheese, baked until bubbling. We tried blueberry and red pepper versions and would happily return just for this meal.
Curry Bowl (Sri Lankan)
Warm, flavorful comfort bowls that hit the spot on a cold day.
Pivnica Medvedgrad Brewery
One of the city’s best breweries. Excellent craft beer, hearty dishes, and a cozy vibe. Beth swears by the beef soup.
The Plac Kitchen
Simple, tasty dishes like chicken plates and burgers — ideal for a quick warm meal.
Zagreb’s Christmas Markets: Festive, Delicious & Delightfully Scattered
Zagreb’s markets aren’t centralized like Vienna or Prague. Instead, they’re sprinkled throughout the city, which turns exploring them into an Advent treasure hunt. Each one has a different vibe; some cozy, some lively, some tucked into charming corners.
Most stalls sell food and drinks, plus local crafts, ornaments, jewelry, hats, and handmade souvenirs. We learned from a chatty bartender that we had arrived a bit early in the season; more decorations and performances appear closer to Christmas.
To make sure you hit them all, set up a custom tour of Zagreb.
And Then There’s… Hot Gin
We expected mulled wine. We did not expect hot gin, simmered with spiced apple cider. As one bartender told us:
“We Balkans cook everything.”
It was delicious — cozy, fragrant, and perfect for a winter night.
Market Snacks
We grabbed sausage dogs buried under kraut, warm pastries, and other Christmas-market classics.
Holiday Shopping
While we picked up some ornaments at the markets, the best finds were at Zagreb Crafts Shop, where local artisans sell beautiful handmade gifts.
Santa’s Tram
We only saw Santa once — aboard Zagreb’s special Christmas Tram, where he serves as conductor. Pure magic.
Final Thoughts: Why Zagreb Should Be on Your Winter Travel List
Zagreb is one of Europe’s most underrated winter destinations. The city is walkable, charming, friendly, and full of festive surprises. Whether you’re wandering from one Advent market to another, tasting štrukli, or discovering quirky museums, Zagreb delivers an unforgettable winter getaway.
And yes, we’re already planning to return, both to Zagreb and the rest of Croatia.
Want to Hear More??
Want to know more about our adventures? Be sure to follow us on our social media at Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube. We also have a podcast! This is unique to our blog posts as we tell you about our adventures. You can find us on Apple, Spotify, Prime, and anywhere else you love to listen to podcasts.
If you love what we do, please consider a donation or just buy us a gin and tonic!
Shelley is a full-time traveler, writer, and podcaster based in Portugal, where she lives with her wife and their beloved bulldog, Scoot. Originally from Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Shelley is a former history teacher who swapped the classroom for cobblestone streets and passport stamps. These days, she explores Portugal and Europe in search of fascinating stories, unforgettable sights, and local flavor—then shares it all through her blog and podcast, Wandering Works for Us, where curiosity meets adventure (and sometimes wine).