When we set out on our Ireland trip, the plan was simple: explore the best places from Dingle to Galway in the Republic of Ireland at our own pace with a rental car, soak in the landscapes, and get a feel for the real, lived-in corners of the country. Of course, the plan also involved Beth doing most of the driving—until life had other ideas. Beth had to cancel the trip due to a knee injury and so my best friend, Julie, and I did the driving. What an adventure that was!

Suddenly, we found ourselves on a long drive navigating narrow roads, adjusting to Irish roundabouts, and hoping I wouldn’t end up against a stone wall. Spoiler: We didn’t! (Though a few were closer than I’d like to admit. It’s why we had full coverage on the car.)

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Starting at Dublin Airport and Heading West

We had just spent 2 days wandering around Dublin, so we headed to the Dublin Airport, grabbed our rental car, and set off toward the west coast with dreams of fishing villages, scenic drives, and comfort breaks with a view. We skipped guided tours and opted to make our own adventure—one filled with local pubs, dramatic cliffs, and tiny little towns we hadn’t even planned to see.

Our first destination: the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, home to some of the most beautiful gardens, fishing boats, and historic points of interest in western Ireland.

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Surviving the Infamous Conor Pass into Dingle Town

We meant to take the main N86 into the town of Dingle, but ended up on the infamous Conor Pass—the highest drivable pass in Ireland, by accident. We didn’t realize where we were until it was too late. We could have turned around and backtracked, but it would have put us in the car for another hour. So we decided to brave it anyway.

It’s scenic, yes, but also a white-knuckle drive full of hairpin turns, cliffs, and stone walls so close I could have rolled down my window and touched them.

Still, it was a great place to test my nerves and take in epic views—on a clear day, you can see the Atlantic Ocean, the Blasket Islands, and the scenic peninsula unfold below. However, we did not see any of this as we were too afraid and focused on not hitting the mountain wall as we navigated oncoming traffic. If you want to see the YouTube Video, click here! The longer version of this story can be found on our podcast.

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Exploring the Streets of Dingle: Shops, Lambs, and Sweet Chili Sauce

The streets of Dingle are colorful, cozy, and packed with charm. This fishing village is filled with traditional pubs, artsy shops on Strand Street and Green Street, and surprises around every corner.

We drove part of the Ring of Dingle (aka Slea Head Drive)—a shorter but equally stunning alternative to the Iveragh Peninsula and Ring of Kerry. Along the way, we visited the beehive huts and even stopped to hold a baby lamb.

You can do this yourselves at Hold a Baby Lamb. The farmer there has several babies that you can pet, hold, and even feed. You can also book a sheep-herding demonstration in advance, which we highly recommend.

And dinner? Fishbox serves fish and chips as big as your head, often with a side of sweet chili sauce, which we saw everywhere. Much fun, highly recommend. We also ate at the Dingle Pub, which had live Irish music playing while we ate, and at Murphy’s Pub, which had an excellent fish stew.

Guided Tours of Dingle Peninsula

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Although we did not do any of these tours, they were recommended to us by our host at Sraid Eoin House and by other people in the village.

• Walking Pub Tour
• Dingle 3-hour open-top Bus tour–a couple said it was a great way to see the peninsula without having to drive
• Blasket Island Eco Tour–might see grey seal colony, whales, and dolphins
• Sea Head Group Tour-small bus to take you around the peninsula with a private guide

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Ring of Kerry

On our way to Killarney, we stopped and took some pictures at Inch Beach, which was just breathtaking! It took us about an hour from Dingle to get to Killarney, but the drive was beautiful.

We wanted to do the whole Ring of Kerry, but the entire ring would be 4 hours long (at least) if we didn’t stop for breaks or scenes! We were exhausted from our drive the day before, so we only did a small bit.

We stopped in Killarney for a moment and then tried to find the Torc Waterfall. We ended up at the wrong trailhead, but that was our fault. We went on to Ladies View (AH-MAZE-ING!) and then down to Kenmare to see the stone circle (which was the perfect spot to have a picnic).

But we highly recommend you check out The Irish Road Trip map and guide. This was a wealth of information about the drive, stops, what to expect, and all the tips and tricks. WE would also like to thank Rick Steves for letting us know to go clockwise so we were never behind a bus.

Crossing the Shannon Estuary Ferry and Stopping at the Cliffs of Moher

The next morning, we took the Shannon Estuary ferry crossing—a relaxed, scenic shortcut that saved us some driving. A local named Maurice had told us it was the best way to break up the drive to Galway City, and he wasn’t wrong.

We made a detour at the Cliffs of Moher, one of the most iconic historic sites in Ireland. It’s busy, yes, and has totally turned into a tourist area, but totally worth it.

You’ll want to buy tickets online and give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the views and the visitor experience, which includes a small museum about Irish history and geography.

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Finding the Best Things to Do in Galway City

Galway City felt like a world away from the rural roads of Kerry. We walked to the city center and did a whirlwind afternoon of exploring. The Hop-On Hop-Off bus provided us with a quick insight into the Long Walk, the River Corrib, the Spanish Arch, and Galway Cathedral, accompanied by commentary that touched on everything from medieval walls to Irish culture. Additionally, it provided us with a layout of the city.

Our favorite part was the Latin Quarter is the heart of the action, with pedestrian streets filled with street performers, cafes, and bars. We had some friends do a culture and food tour that they really enjoyed.

We spent a great deal of time shopping, walking around, and enjoying the pub life in the Latin Quarter. It is definitely where the party is.

We browsed the Saturday market at Eyre Square, where we bought some art from some local artists. There is also one down by Salt Hill if you get a chance to check it out.

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Final Thoughts: What We Loved, What We’d Skip, and What’s Next

Favorite parts of the trip?

• Cozy traditional pubs in Dingle Town
• Baby lambs and beehive huts
• Scenic roads along the west of Ireland
• Fresh seafood, live music, and the ever-present sweet chili sauce

Not-so-favorite parts?

• Driving long distances on narrow roads 
• An unexpected lack of salad

What would we do differently next time?

• Spend more time at Killarney National Park and along the Ring of Kerry
• Visit Cork City, County Wicklow, and the Rock of Cashel
• Take a full day for the Aran Islands, and maybe see Bunratty Castle on the way
• Head up to Clifdon
• Connemara National Park and Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Gardens

This road trip through the midlands of Ireland, the western coastline, and colorful towns showed us just how much variety this island offers. Whether you’re arriving via Dublin Airport, hopping on a Bus Éireann, or road tripping with your partner, there’s always another scenic overlook, cozy pub, or round tower waiting around the bend.

Want to hear more? Check out the podcasts on both Dublin and Dingle and Galway.

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