Some stories of love withstand time, echoing across centuries as both a warning and a wonder. Few tales capture the imagination like the story of Pedro and Inês, two souls whose love defied convention, politics, and even death itself. Known as the “Juliet of Portugal,” the love story of Pedro and Inês is a tale of forbidden love, eternal love, and tragedy that shaped the history of Portugal.
Before our first trip to Portugal, I found myself researching the country’s past, eager to learn not just the famous landmarks but the stories behind them. That’s when I picked up The Portuguese: A Modern History by Barry Hatton, which mentioned the story of D. Pedro and D. Inês de Castro. I was instantly captivated. What followed was a deep dive into what many call the Romeo and Juliet of Portugal—a love story so dramatic, so tragic, that it still resonates today.
Portugal in the 14th Century: Politics and Royal Duty
The stage for this tragic romance was set in the 14th century, a pivotal period for Portugal. The first king of Portugal had secured independence only a few generations prior, and the royal family now faced delicate political pressures from neighboring Castile. Pedro’s father, King Afonso IV, was determined to protect his kingdom and maintain stability, not just for his reign but for the entire kingdom.
King Afonso IV arranged marriages and alliances with careful attention to diplomacy. His son, Prince Pedro of Portugal, was a dutiful heir, set to marry D. Constança Manuel, a Galician noblewoman and Princess of Castile. This union promised to secure peace with Castile, but as fate would have it, Pedro’s heart had other plans.
The Marriage That Wasn’t Enough
In 1340, the royal wedding took place. Pedro’s wife, D. Constança Manuel, was renowned for her beauty and grace, yet she would never hold Pedro’s heart. That honor fell to her handmaiden, Inês de Castro, a member of the influential Castro family. At first sight, Pedro was captivated. What began as a secret affair between a prince and a handmaiden would blossom into a passion so intense it would defy the royal court, the entire kingdom, and even death itself.
For years, Pedro and Inês carried on their secret affair, meeting in whispers and shadows. At first, it seemed harmless, a private love hidden behind the doors of palaces. But as time went on, Pedro’s neglect of his duties and the growing influence of Inês’ brothers, who were all tied to Castile, alarmed Pedro’s father. There were whispers at court that the future king of Portugal, Pedro’s son with Constança, could be endangered by Castilian plots, a true crime case centuries in the making.
The Exile of Inês
In 1344, Alfonso’s patience ran out. He exiled Inês to the borderlands of Portugal, far from Coimbra and the royal court. But distance could not sever their bond. The lovers continued to meet in secret, their eternal love growing even stronger despite the king’s orders. Their clandestine meetings, once harmless, have now become a political threat. Nobles whispered, alarmed by Pedro’s close ties to Inês’ brothers and fearing Castilian influence over Portugal.
For Pedro, exile meant nothing. He refused to abandon his true love and continued to see Inês, a defiance that would have catastrophic consequences.
The Death of Constança and a Kingdom in Turmoil
In 1355, tragedy struck again. D. Constança Manuel, Pedro’s wife, died giving birth to her first child, Ferdinand (future king D. Fernando). For a brief moment, it seemed Pedro might be free to follow his heart without political repercussions. Yet Pedro’s father had other plans. Alfonso IV refused to sanction Pedro’s union with Inês, fearing political upheaval.
The secret affair became more visible, and the entire court was in uproar. Rumors spread that Castile might attempt to assassinate Ferdinand, allowing Inês’ brothers and Castilian allies to place Pedro’s children with Inês on the throne. The tension escalated: love had collided with politics, creating a perilous situation for the royal family and the stability of the Portuguese throne.
Inês’ Death: Tragedy at the Monastery of Santa Clara
Alfonso IV, fed up with Pedro’s defiance, ordered the murder of Inês de Castro. She was found at the Monastery of Santa Clara in Coimbra, where she was decapitated in front of her youngest child. Witnesses would later describe the chilling scene: a mother killed before her children, a true crime case that shocked the kingdom. The grief of Pedro was unparalleled.
At first, he was enraged, nearly sparking a civil war against his father. Pedro even launched a small rebellion, though his mother intervened to calm him. He promised not to pursue the assassins immediately, but he would not forget. When Pedro’s father died in 1357, Pedro became king, and his vengeance was swift and brutal.
Revenge and the Birth of “Pedro the Cruel”
Pedro tracked down the men responsible for Inês’ death: Álvaro Gonçalves, Diogo Lopes Pacheco, and Pêro Coelho. Legend says he tore their hearts out with his bare hands, earning him the fearsome nickname “Pedro the Cruel.” The royal family and nobles watched in stunned silence, aware that Pedro’s heart would not rest until justice, or vengeance, was served.
This act was not only personal; it was symbolic. Pedro’s actions cemented his reputation as a king who loved deeply but ruled with an iron will when it came to betrayal.
The Dead Queen: Inês Crowned
The most extraordinary chapter of the love story of Pedro came after vengeance was exacted. Pedro claimed that he and Inês had been secretly married, making her the queen of Portugal posthumously. In a legendary act, he exhumed Inês’ body, dressed her in royal robes, and placed her on the throne. The funeral procession required the entire court to pledge fealty by kissing her left hand, an eerie ceremony immortalizing their eternal love.
The magnificent tombs of Pedro and Inês were later carved in Gothic style at the Monastery of Alcobaça. They face each other, ensuring that when the end of the world comes, they can meet in eternal love. The tombs are adorned with intricate carvings: human faces, animal bodies, and scenes from their lives, a visual testament to passion, loyalty, and tragedy.
The Tombs and Landmarks of Their Love
Today, visitors can explore these magnificent tombs at the Alcobaça Monastery, witnessing firsthand the devotion Pedro displayed. Nearby, the Paços de Santa Clara and the Gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas honor the story of her love affair. In these gardens, the Fonte das Lágrimas, or Fountain of Tears, commemorates Inês’ sorrow and Pedro’s grief, a poignant reminder of their forbidden love.
The rose window of the monastery, the delicate thin grasses around the tombs, and the artistry in the carvings—animal bodies intertwined with human faces—invite reflection. Even centuries later, it’s easy to see why the love story of Pedro continues to capture imaginations.
Serra D’El Rei: Where Love Was Secretly Nurtured
For us, the story carries special meaning because we live in Serra D’El Rei, a village historically linked to Pedro and Inês. Legend holds that Dom Pedro had a hunting lodge here where the lovers secretly met, a local estate of tears where true love thrived despite danger.
Today, Serra D’El Rei celebrates this history with the Dom Pedro I museum, streets named after the couple, and public art commemorating the story of Inês. The village feels alive with echoes of their romance, and for us, visiting these spots has transformed history into a tangible experience.
The Legacy of Pedro and Inês
The love of Pedro and Inês is more than legend; it shaped the future king of Portugal, the succession of the Portuguese throne, and the memory of D. Inês de Castro as a dead queen whose dignity and passion transcended life. The tombs of D. Pedro and Inês remain a pilgrimage site, offering a glimpse of true love and the extreme devotion of a man who would not allow even death to separate him from his beloved.
From the city of Coimbra to the Castle of Albuquerque, the story permeates Portugal. Monuments, museums, fountains, and royal robes preserved in history serve as reminders of the love story nous, a narrative of devotion, tragedy, and revenge that continues to inspire.
Conclusion: Eternal Love in Portugal
The story of Inês is not just a story of a prince and his handmaiden; it’s a lesson in devotion, courage, and the extremes of human emotion. The love story of Pedro, marked by a secret affair, tragedy, vengeance, and resurrection, offers a vivid lens into the history of Portugal and the lives of its royal family.
Visiting the Alcobaça Monastery, Serra D’El Rei, and the Gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas allows history to come alive. From the chilling murder of Inês de Castro to the haunting beauty of the magnificent tombs, every detail speaks to a romance that defied Pedro’s father, the entire court, and even death itself.
Pedro and Inês are more than historical figures; they are symbols of eternal love, immortalized in stone, legend, and the hearts of those who walk the grounds where their secret affair once blossomed.
The story of D. Pedro and D. Inês de Castro reminds us that true love is worth fighting for—sometimes to the point of tragedy, sometimes to the point of immortality. And centuries later, as you walk the estate of tears, witness the fountain of tears, or explore the tombs of D. Pedro, you understand why this Juliet of Portugal continues to inspire wonder and admiration.
Shelley is a full-time traveler, writer, and podcaster based in Portugal, where she lives with her wife and their beloved bulldog, Scoot. Originally from Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Shelley is a former history teacher who swapped the classroom for cobblestone streets and passport stamps. These days, she explores Portugal and Europe in search of fascinating stories, unforgettable sights, and local flavor—then shares it all through her blog and podcast, Wandering Works for Us, where curiosity meets adventure (and sometimes wine).