Tourism in Spain has been getting a lot of bad press lately. Most people are headed to the big cities such as Barcelona and Madrid where overcrowding and tourism protesting have become big. So why not visit a part of Spain that is a little less crowded, but has the charm of the old world too. Ourense, a city located in the heart of Galicia, is a hidden gem just waiting to be explored.
Ourense is considered the city of water. During the Roman Empire, gold was mined out of the Miño River but today it is known for the thermal springs that line the banks of the river and are open to the public. But Ourense has more to offer than healing waters. It is a city with a rich history
Thermal Waters of Ourense
The main reason we decided to go to Ourense was to visit the healing thermal waters along the banks of the River Miño. The province of Ourense has taken the thermal waters and created urban thermal baths that are open and free to the public. Average temperatures of these waters are anywhere from 37 degrees celsius (98.6 F) to 42 degrees celsius (107.6 F). I absolutely love to soak in a hot tub and the idea of these natural waters on my muscles sounded so good. But, for some reason it did not dawn on me that we were going in the middle of July and inner Spain/Portugal are very hot. The outside temp was around 34 C so you can imagine that we did not stay in the pools very long.
The outdoor pools are free to the public but there is one spa that is privately owned. The Termas de Outariz thermal complex with oriental-inspired spas. They have two circuits- a zen based circuit where the pools are calm and soothing and a Celtic based circuit with waterfalls and jets. It costs less than €7 to enter the spa and you are allowed to stay for 2 hours. They have cafe and offer other spa treatments such as massages. Beth and I had one and have to say it was an interesting experience. If you want to hear the story, listen to the podcast episode here!
These pools are different from the natural hot springs that are offered to the public. They are chlorinated and have a staff that require you to wear proper clothing. There was one staffer that walked around and ensured that people were not making too much noise.
Given the opportunity, I would definitely go back but in much cooler months. The springs felt good on my muscles and the scenery along the river was beautiful.
River Miño Bridges of Ourense
As you walk along the river front in Ourense you can see how old worlds and new worlds collide. There are several bridges that cross the river (including the one that takes you to the hot springs) but the two that catch your eye are the Millennium Bridge (Ponte do Milenio) and the Roman Bridge (Ponte Vella).
The Roman Bridge is a very old bridge built during the first century CE. It is about 370 meters long and is used as a pedestrian bridge today. You can cross the bridge and enter the park down by the river. It is the perfect place to sunbathe or dip your feet into the cool water.
The Millennium Bridge can be seen from the Roman Bridge. It is both a pedestrian bridge and a road bridge. It connects Ourense city with newer areas.
Both bridges serve as important landmarks in Ourense, representing different periods of the city’s history. The Roman Bridge showcases the area’s ancient heritage, while the Millennium Bridge represents modern engineering and design.
Ourense’s Old Quarter
Our hotel was located about a twenty minute walk into old town and so every night, we strolled along the streets in the heart of the city looking for the local cuisine. The area around Plaza do Ferro is an excellent place to have a drink before dinner and to find your perfect restaurant. We always found ourselves out at 8 pm looking for drinks because dinner in Spain is always late.
We recommend you check out Restaurant Serendipity for light tapas and great wine. If you are looking for a more substantial meal, try Milongas Parrillada. We had a fantastic steak there but warning–you may have to cook it yourself! It you want details, we tell the story in our podcast episode. Short story is that we really enjoyed the steak even though I had no idea what I was doing.
The historic architecture in old town is also quite beautiful. Ourense Cathedral also known as the Cathedral of San Martiño sits right in the middle of the town, and it is HUGE. In order to get anywhere, you have to walk around it and then you get the feel for how immense it is.
Ways to See Ourense
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If you are looking to spend a night or two in Ourense, we recommend NH Ourense Hotel. This four-star hotel is just a short walk to Old Town and they have a private garage for parking. We even had a private hot tub session at their spa (like we haven’t been in enough hot water!).
We also recommend a walking tour of Ourense with a private guide. This way you can get more information about each place and get a real feel for this beautiful city.
Ourense is also not that far from Santiago de Compostela if you are looking to take a day trip or Vigo on the west coast of Spain. We included Ourense in our road trip because it looked like an interesting place to visit in Spain, and I of course love hot water.
But even if you don’t experience the thermal springs, Ourense has an authentic Galician culture including the food and Ribeiro wine which is delicious! No wonder it is one of Galicia’s best-kept secrets!
Shelley is a full time traveler, blogger and podcaster currently living in Portugal with her wife, 2 dogs and a cat. She is a former history teacher originally from Winston-Salem, NC but wanted to see what life was like abroad. Now she travels all over Portugal and Europe writing about what she sees and does and tells you all kinds of fun stories on the podcast at Wandering Works for Us.